Perfume Concentrations: A Quick Explanation

Parfums, EDPs, EDTs, colognes. Long ago, the perfume overlords decreed this was the classification of perfume concentrations and that’s how it’s always been. With how commonly we see the classifications , it’s easy to think of them that way- as clearly distinguished and rigid categories. The higher the concentration of perfume, the longer it lasts. Right? Well, it’s more nuanced than that.

The simplest way to make sense of the many concentrations of fragrances is the below accepted standards:

  • Eau Fraiche has 1-3% of perfume oil, the lowest of all perfumes. They are usually sold in the form of body mists and tend to be diluted with water instead of alcohol or oil.
  • Eau de Cologne has 2-4% of perfume oil and is suitable for when you want a few hours of freshness. Cologne is used in some places to refer to masculine perfumes. The name comes from Cologne, Germany when it was invented.
  • Eau de Toilette tends to have 5-15% of perfume oil concentration and is usually diluted with alcohol. Some use them specifically for daytime and summertime wear as they’re lighter. Many perfumes come with a few concentration options to cater to varied preferences.
  • Eau de Parfum has quite a high level of concentration at 15-20%. This is the most popular concentration of perfumes in the market. They last a long time and you may be able to catch a whiff of it on yourself even at the end of the day.
  • Parfum or Extrait de Parfum is the highest perfume concentration in the market with 20-40% of perfume oils. They can be trusted to last all day long and be noticed when you walk into a room. They’re usually saved for special occasions.

The Names are Complicated

Though I’ve listed the perfumes from least to most concentrated, it must be noted that they aren’t strict categories. The categories we have today didn’t always exist in that they either didn’t have a name or had different meanings. In many parts of the world, ‘perfume’ is used to describe women’s perfumes and ‘cologne’ to describe men’s perfumes, communicating only the gender and nothing about the concentration.

In reality, the term cologne was first used to describe a class of light perfumes made in Cologne, Germany which were mainly citrusy with additions of woody and floral ingredients. Eau de Toilette, which means ‘grooming water’, was a classification that became more popular around the 19th century.

The first fragrance we know to have used the ‘parfum’ label is Guerlain’s Jicky in 1889. Eventually, fragrances were released in different concentrations for different occasions. Stronger concentrations for the evening and special occasions, lighter concentrations for personal enjoyment and for refreshing oneself. Only when the need arose to differentiate products from the marketing standpoint did companies start using ‘cologne’ for products that were lighter than EdTs.

Before these classifications, Eau de Cologne and Parfum were the only terms used. It didn’t mean no one made what we call an Eau de Toilette (5-15%); they simply did so under a different name. They found popularity when need arose for a middle ground– something that isn’t as strong as parfums but not as light as Eau de Colognes.

Perfume Concentrations and Formulation

We can get the same perfume at different concentration levels, especially with popular brands. It’s important to note that they don’t just vary in concentration but also formulation. For example, there would be a higher focus on the base notes when formulating EdPs and on the top notes when formulating EdTs.

Due to variations in molecular weight of ingredients, there is variation in ingredient choice to have the intended fragrance experience. Let’s take Dior’s very popular Sauvage line. They have some common notes among them to create a cohesive experience, but most notes vary by several degrees based on concentration. So, it’s not always safe to blind buy a different concentration of a perfume you love.

The notes are changed sometimes to diversify the consumer base of a popular perfume. Someone who may not like certain notes in a perfume might find that they like a different concentration with its different notes much better.

The aging process for stronger perfumes tends to be longer. Perfumes aren’t ready to be used as soon as they’re made. They must macerate for the different notes and the carrier (alcohol or oil) to become a balanced, unified fragrance and not come off as clearly separated parts.

Perfume Concentrations and Performance

More isn’t always better. Doubling the concentration doesn’t mean you get double the performance. Alcohol is used in perfumes because their small molecular size means better evaporation and dispersal of fragrance in the air. High concentration perfumes have lower alcohol content, making for lower diffusion.

A lot rests on the perfume notes when it comes to performance. Perfumes going for a light and airy sensory experience rely on ingredients with lighter molecules that diffuse faster in the air, like citruses. For a long lasting fragrance, opt for perfumes that use heavier molecules like musks, woods, spices, etc.

Perfume Concentrations and Use Case

Lighter fragrances like body mists are good for when you want a pick-me-up. They’re made to last just a few hours and not leave behind a noticeable scent trail (sillage) in your wake. They use ingredients that are gentle and diffuse into the air faster. Lighter concentrations are used in hair perfumes to prevent damage while offering a pleasant fragrance. They’re a good option when you’re in a smaller space as they’re gentle and inoffensive.

Highly concentrated fragrances are meant for special occasions and perform better in colder times and evenings. There’s been renewed interest in high concentration perfumes. Amouage has an ‘Exceptional Extraits’ collection with highly concentrated creations, the numbers in the perfumes’ names indicating their concentration.

Elixirs and extraits are not industry standard labels. They function as marketing labels to convey how a fragrance behaves. The message can be about a multitude of things– longevity, richness of the ingredients, sillage, etc.

Perfume performance, beyond the quality and concentration, is also dependent on how you wear it and your skin chemistry. So I recommend testing before buying a full bottle. To know more about the technicalities that go into perfume making, you can always have a look at the IFRA’s regulations.

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