Yazhini ManimudiGiorgio Armani has added a new fragrance to their 1001 Nuits Haute Couture Collection, a range of exceptional fragrances inspired by tales of the Arabian Nights. The new Cuir Nu is inspired by Venetian leather tanneries with a blend of leather’s floral friend rose and Italian coffee.
Armani describe the scent to be a bridging of the “East and West with its opulent yet refined character”. It is meant to represent the late Giorgio Armani’s Italian origins and his Eastern inspirations. The nose behind this fragrance is Delphine Lebeau, Senior Perfumer at International Flavours and Fragrances. She has previously worked with Givaudan and brands like Fendi, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, and Avon.
Leather can be interpreted in a variety of ways in perfumery from the animalic to the soft. Leather notes can be used to project the kind of strength that comes from generational wealth– think expensive leather seats in an Aston Martin– but also rebellion that goes against this strength– think studded black leather jackets found on someone riding a motorcycle. But leather isn’t all rough edges, power and the rebellion against it. It can be made soft and exude warmth. Reminiscent of leather goods that you have owned for a lifetime, softened with use and witness to the ups and downs of your life, a reliable friend.
The leather central to Cuir Nu is a soft, supple one, made to bring comfort through familiarity while reminding you of its sophisticated origins.
Top: Cardamom, Dark-Roasted Arabica Coffee
Middle: Damascena Rose, Leather
Base: Amber, Tonka Bean, Labdanum
The opening is warm and inviting, the aromatic touches of cardamom wafting through the richness of dark roasted coffee. It has the warmth of caramel and toasted nuts that some dark roasts tend to have. Along with mild hints of bitterness, it is a savory gourmand beginning. As we’re slowly leaving the heavily sweet gourmands behind, it makes sense to have a new offering in anticipation of a savory gourmand shift.
Sweet rose begins to come through earlier in the experience, blending with the coffee and cardamom for a sophisticated profile. The leather is smooth, like a well worn leather item in your closet that brings comfort simply from its years of journeying with you. The coffee keeps coming through even at this stage. In a couple of hours, the leather becomes even softer, feeling a little more like suede.
In the drydown, the coffee disappears and the remnants of leather are supported by the leathery undercurrents of the resinous labdanum. The multidimensional sweetness from amber, tonka bean, and labdanum create a deep, luxurious scent that lingers on the skin when the other notes have disappeared.
It blends the bold and intimate for a leather that sits close to you rather than standing apart and isolating itself with its strength. It would be a good addition to your perfume collection if you’re looking to switch your summer fragrances for deeper autumnal ones.
Cuir Nu comes in 50 ml (AED 960) and 100 ml (AED 1,430) BOTTLES and can be found directly at Armani or sellers like Ounaas and Bloomingdales.
Sowmya Gibish
